Local Table
A GUIDE TO FOOD AND FARMING IN MIDDLE TENNESSEE
SUMMER 2010
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“Ms Cook” Lives Again

Ms Cook’s Table

Go for some golden

July 28th, 2010

Recognizing the sacred begins, quite simply, when we are interested in every detail of our lives. Chogyam Trungpa

Last year, in anticipation of a grandchild, I invested in a wistful little item. A prompt to inflate my imaginative prowess was the ticket. To set the stage, l called on a confluence of family members who have flown away. For me, they are connected by the love of a good story and an obsession with the diminutive. From time to time, they jiggle my strings setting off ideas and so, with sedulous care, I placed my acquisition at the base of a giant mock orange tree, facing our front door and stood back in admiration. For anyone who would be slow enough to notice – a tiny door bridled with storybook hardware to summon the lithe imagination.

As it turned out, imagination would be a consequence of first-rate observation, the sort that I had not indulged since childhood. Morning and evening walks around the garden revealed mega communities of mini, even infinitesimal creatures, who carried on daily. My fairy tale became a reminder of the outdoor inhabitants who work exquisitely at bankrolling the world.

Take a long forgotten flowerbed, sporting day lilies, privet, monkey grass and a straggle of tired roses. Enter an unknowing human in search of food: planting potatoes (Yukon Gold) and tomatoes (yellow pear). Unaware of ever-present assistance, she chooses her favorite color flaxen and commences.

Beginner’s luck could account, but the result has been golden – we’ve been rewarded luscious bowls of garden fresh and I can bear witness that the process was no more difficult than filling in a coloring book, albeit it – outside the lines. Watching the progress of the plants, I longed to knock on the tiny door of creation and give thanks.

Years ago, my girls came home with freshly dug potatoes and plucked tomatoes as a consequence of spending time with former kindergarten teacher, Granny Gale. Having found the food to be incomparable, my dreams of a self made harvest were manifest this summer as I witnessed countless miniature workmates, winged or footed, engaged in otherworldly support.

As a result I can tell you, little can compare (even in the imagination) to a recent evening in which I strolled into my own backyard and under the setting sun, dug up my own spud. The smell of hot earth and a mature Yukon Gold potato is a divine treasure that I want to take with me to the proverbial island along with the sweet yellow pear tomato.

I understand that a certain European village market toils all day selling individual foodstuffs, but when the workday is done; they push long tables together and invite everyone to feast as a community gift. Somehow when I prepare this celebratory dish, I can imagine that all participating minions of the tiny door world will be joining me – if not now, later, on their own at the banquet table of the compost.

Mashed tomato potatoes

2 pounds Yukon Gold potatoes (or potato of your choice), cut into 2 inch pieces
2 garlic cloves, peeled
½ cup milk
¼ cup unsalted butter
¼ cup chopped flat-leaf parsley
3 scallions or 1 small onion, chopped and sautéed
½ cup grated Parmesan
½ teaspoon kosher salt
2 pounds yellow pear (or chopped tomatoes of your choice), chopped

Place the potatoes and garlic in a saucepan and cover with lightly salted water. Bring to a boil. Cover and simmer about 20 minutes or until a fork easily pierces the potatoes. Drain the potatoes and garlic. Mash potatoes and garlic until smooth. Blend in the milk, butter, parsley, onion, Parmesan, and salt. Gently fold in the tomatoes.

Pesto chango

July 22nd, 2010

You are carrying God’s body. Oprah Winfrey

Did you know that over several generations within the evolutionary process, certain populations become better suited to their habitat by adapting? I love the thought of adaptability. Scientist claim that this principal is responsible for flexibility in human beings and our success as a species.

So far this feature has seemingly advanced our plight. However, I’m a wee bit concerned about the current shape of particular unconscious adaptations – the ones with negative implications of which we might be partaking. Can we say empty calories? If, for example over time, horses have developed teeth that can grind grass, could we in like manner be unplugging vital circuitry in the realm of taste by diminishing food variety and feeding ourselves with so much tasteless packaged refuse?

I’ve taken back my joy. Didn’t even know what that meant until I changed the ingredient sources for my favorite grill recipe. It all started in the kitchen of my parent’s home. I was intrigued with the tiny space above the oven that held “the spices.” They were exotic and I often opened the cabinet door for a hit. After all, my spartan grandparents only permitted salt and pepper. Humorously today, I understand that with my mother’s admonition “to use spices sparingly”, I couldn’t risk flavor if I unloaded an entire bottle – they were generally too ancient to be of danger.

The basil was my favorite. Knowing now what basil would provide my culinary world in its original and glorious form, I might have considered the restaurant business – Ms Cook’s Basil Basics. The heady herb invokes the senses beyond expression, so we know that this detail alone could advance our breed, but there’s more. Basil has health advantages. The five thousand year old herb contains cinnamanic acid, a compound that enhances circulation and respiration also stabilizing blood sugar. Additionally, findings prove that basil can give the body the ability to combat a variety of infections.

In the tilt a whirl game of adaptation – where would we rather cast our lot: shriveled and treated or lush and spiked with life evoking properties? Now that you’re agreeable, make sure you plant some basil next spring in close proximity to the kitchen. Your descendants will thank you and as a perk, lodge this poultry preparation in a vault along side the family jewels. It’s a keeper and God only knows what you’ll gain by including the chicken that was allowed to thrive on a stable diet of good grains and leg stretching sprints around a Tennessee farm.

Pesto Grilled Chicken

Adapted by Recipes from Home by David Page and Barbara Shinn

Pesto (makes 2 cups)
4 cups (tightly packed) fresh basil leaves
2 garlic cloves, minced
¾ cup olive oil
½ cup grated Parmesan or pecorino romano
½ cup walnuts or pine nuts
kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
1 chicken, about 3 ½ pounds or equivalent pieces

For the pesto, place the basil and garlic in a food processor or blender and process to a puree. With the machine running, slowly add the olive oil, processing until it is incorporated. Add the cheese and nuts and process to a puree. Season with salt and pepper.
Prepare a charcoal grill.
Meanwhile cut up the chicken into 8 pieces – 2 breasts, 2 thighs, 2 drumsticks and 2 wings. In a large bowl, toss the chicken pieces with the pesto until evenly coated. Season with salt and pepper. Let marinate at room temperature for 20 minutes.
Grill the chicken over a medium-hot fire, turning occasionally, until the skin is crispy and slightly charred and the juices run clear when the thigh is pierced with a knife, 20 to 25 minutes.

RESOURCES

Fresh Basil – Farmer’s Markets the world over or your own backyard

Garlic – Rocky Glade Farm, Eagleville, TN – Franklin Farmers Market – www.franklinfarmersmarket.com

Chicken – Windy Acres Farm – Franklin Farmers Market
West Wind Farm – Franklin Farmers Market
Peaceful Pastures Farm – Franklin Farmers Market

Kumback to Mississippi

July 20th, 2010

Memory can be as solid and reassuring as a wool blanket on a wintry night, but sometimes as uncertain as a worn out quilt. Sketchy remembrances like a threadbare cover often present gaping holes with puzzling pieces. Such are the origins of my love for kumback sauce.

Did the luscious pink dressing first adorn a fancy shrimp cocktail served in my Grandmother’s Victorian dining room or did my people simply slap a teaspoon full on a saltine and shove it my way? Earliest details elude me, but one thing I know for sure – the setting was as exotic and disturbing as the place itself – Mississippi.

Since I do believe that there is more to birthplace than random design, I’ll claim every bit of the chaotic and creative privilege. I’m certain that contradictory thoughts about my home state are not mine alone, and will confirm that the hills of North Mississippi can break my heart while the flatness of the Delta landscape can revive me. Even walking into a room of strangers anywhere in the state, I can feel an odd sense of familiarity. Splendid eccentricity is the norm there and the by-product has been an historic rhythm of color, words, music and food that allows for quirky brilliance.

On a trip to Jackson, Mississippi last weekend, highlights of a recovery struggle were evident, but timeless sparkle abounded in my favorite food haunts. Some enhance my table while others inspire it. Amid other nationally recognized premiers, Lemuria Books provides an endearing cookbook collection and Annelle Primos and Associates have the tools for the most stirring table tops ever to roll out a meal. Respectively, John Evans and Annelle have developed retail destinations second to none and I know their individual successes can be attributed to a Mississippi heritage known as the artful host.

Within that role, they well know that delicious food is a birthright. In Jackson alone, multitudes of restaurants highlighted by ethic specials have been embraced at every point in the state’s history. State wide, various cultures have been celebrated within the walls of food havens leaving their epigraph.

Kumback is a significant example as it reportedly began its flavorful journey in the Jackson kitchen of The Rotisserie and then made its way onto the menus of other Greek restaurants to become a Mississippi staple.

Not surprisingly in Jackson, three of our favorite restaurants on this earth are the ubiquitous Mayflower Café with ever-present bottles of said sauce, Walker’s Drive In, serving a spicier version each day for lunch (on fried portabellas at night) and the timeless Crechale’s Restaurant employing Kumback as a permanent plate partner.

With pride I can testify that a colorful meal will always be a part of the Mississippi experience along with the people who charmingly prepare and serve the plate. The piece de resistance is the yummy sauce that I count on for cover.

Kumback Sauce

As quoted by author of Screen Doors and Sweet Tea, Martha Foose’s recipe is authentic as home and you can put it on anything.

1 cup of mayonnaise (preferably homemade)
14 cup salad oil
¼ cup chili sauce
¼ cup ketchup
1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
1 teaspoon yellow mustard
1 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
1 teaspoon hot pepper sauce
¼ teaspoon hot paprika
1 small white onion, grated
2 cloves garlic, minced

RESOURCES for Jackson, Mississippi

Lemuria Books
www.lemuriabooks.com

Annelle Primos and Associates
www.aprimos.com

Mayflower Café
123 West Capitol Street
601-355-4122

Walker’s Drive In
3016 North State Street
601-982-2633

Crechale’s Restaurant
3107 Hwy 80 West
601-355-1840