A Guide To Food And Farming In Middle Tennessee
Winter 2011-12
E arly fall marks the start of winter squash season, a time when farmers' markets and CSA shares are loaded down with an assortment of these bulbous, colorful gourds. Squash can be intimidating in the kitchen. From the outside, there isn't much indication of what lies within. And when you slice them open, the fibrous, fleshy pulp doesn't immediately look appetizing. With a little know-how and confidence in the kitchen, you can coax out the buttery, nutty and complex flavors of these tasty squash that complement both sweet and savory dishes. More..."I hate blueberries," said a customer at "Blueberries on the Buffalo Farm" in Lawrenceburg. "Well then - try this. This is a blueberry." said Dan Eiser, proprietor, offering up a perfectly plump berry. After tasting the berry, the woman became one of his best customers. "She'd only tasted those cardboard things you buy at the grocery store - she had no idea what a real blueberry tasted like!" he says jubilantly. More...O n a recent evening at Tayst restaurant in Nashville, two people sitting at the same table ordered the same steak from the same menu. Jeremy Barlow, the restaurant's chef and owner, says the slices of beef came from the same cow and were cooked and prepared the same way, by the same chef, in the same kitchen. The meals were prepared and delivered; the diners dined. Afterward, they delivered their verdicts to Barlow. More...D riving down Banks Pisgah Road in Smithville, Tennessee on a cold and dreary February day, you might be surprised to see tomatoes already in the ground anywhere nearby. But this is what you would find at Food From God Farm. It's no miracle; it's just one of the innovative and exciting ideas Lori Wright and her family members are implementing on their five-acre farm. More...F armers Markets have long been a way for people to connect with farmers and get the best in local produce. And now, through the miracle of online technology and thanks to Eric Wagoner, creator of the online software LocallyGrown.net, they’re becoming more customer-friendly and more farmer-friendly everyday. More...D espite the economic challenges, Nashville restaurateurs are still opening imaginative new venues offering creative bills of fare. For some, this has meant taking their food on the road, and it's likely that the popular trend will continue to find a new culinary landscape emerging at a street corner near you. More...W hen enjoying a restaurant meal in Nashville, we expect our chefs to bring their best to the table night after night with fresh, local ingredients, inspired recipes and thoughtful, dedicated service. Usually, this is exactly what we get. For a passionate, creative chef what could be more important than overwhelming the customer's eyes, taste buds and waistline? For many local culinarians the desire to serve also motivates them. They take action beyond the kitchen, past the front-of-the-house and out into the larger community. We count many Nashville chefs and restaurants among those people who try to prepare the perfect dish while working simultaneously to make our city a better place to live. For this issue - which will lead us into the holiday season - we picked three faces unique to Nashville's food community. We applaud their personalities, their well- known menus and, most importantly, their laudable dedication to serving not only their customers, but their neighbors as well. More...G erald and Patricia Martin didn’t set out to be farmers. Both husband and wife worked as teachers for many years. When they moved to Tennessee from Long Island there was culture shock. However, the Martins were dedicated to make both the farming and the teaching work. More...V isitors who make the trek to Bonnie Blue Farm aren't drawn by roller coasters or water slides. They're more likely to be looking for a rustic retreat or wildlife, which includes one mule, three Great Pyrenees dogs, a Jersey cow named Eileen, and goats. The kids scamper too fast to be counted. In a clean, tiled studio guests mash their noses against the windows and spy on Gayle Tanner as she makes the farm's signature goat cheese. Gayle's been making cheese for 35 years and has the expert's knack for making it look effortless. Nearby is a recently built, state-of-the- art cheese cave, guarded by a suit of armor. A short hike away, two forest streams converge to create an inviting place to splash and play. "It used to be the country swimming hole," says Jim Tanner. "There's no long distance swimming, but you can get in here, sit in cool water up to your neck, and feel the minnows nipping at your toes." More...I f you drive the back roads through the country in Southern Kentucky and Middle Tennessee in the late summer you might have noticed a strange looking crop growing in the fields. The foliage is tall and green. The stocks with tassels topping the heads resemble corn without ears. It's not a type of corn, but the singular Southern crop of sorghum, 'sorghum bicolor'. Scattered throughout our rural countryside, the old ways are kept alive by the harvesting, the horse drawn milling and the processing of the old-fashioned staple. One such place is the Highland Community just across the state line up the road from Lafayette, TN. Overseen by community member and chief cook Joe Troyer, the sorghum harvest is a community effort, from growing and harvesting to milling and bottling. More...O ne of the greatest success stories from the hippie movement is the ever-relevant teacher, Jeff Poppen, also known as the Barefoot Farmer. In 1974, after a childhood on a farm outside Chicago, Jeff exchanged a promised college fund for a down payment to help his brother buy a farm in Red Boiling Springs, Tennessee. In the hills of north Middle Tennessee, he found a pioneer base of operation. His farm, Long Hungry Creek Farm, became certified organic in 1987, and has been certified biodynamic for the past 13 years; it produces 150,000 pounds of fresh vegetables each year. More...J ohn Dyke grew up on a farm in Greeneville, Tennessee, and knows what food is supposed to taste like. He knows that eating a tomato, for example, should bring a luscious burst of flavor, as opposed to something akin to biting into tasteless cardboard. Dyke has brought his knowledge of healthy food to bear in the creation of his two stores, the Turnip Truck Natural Market and the Turnip Truck Urban Fare, and credits his childhood experience as the thing that really led him to launch the first store, located in East Nashville. "In the summer we grew and canned everything," he says. "There were many months when we didn't even have to go to the store. We lived off the land." More...A n old way of farming is becoming new again. Local farmers are helping to feed their own communities, many family farms are experiencing new life and young people are starting to consider farming as a lifestyle and career choice. More...F resh local produce throughout a Tennessee winter? Who figured.... yet there are a few intrepid farmers who, instead of mending fences and planning next season's garden, continue farming during our erratic and unpredictable winter months. Meet farmers Andrew and Reuben Habegger of Eco Gardens CSA. Andrew and his partner/brother Reuben belong to the Old Order Mennonite Community in Scottsville, KY and for the past two years continued to run a CSA straight through the usually barren months of November through April. Which means instead of dealing with hot, humid weather and warm weather pests, the brothers have learned to contend with shorter hours of daylight, freezing days and nights and fluctuating daytime temperatures. More...A re you a mom-to-be and want to avoid getting sick during those extensive nine months of pregnancy? Instead of opening up your medicine cabinet when you sniffle, how about opening the refrigerator door before symptoms start and eating immune enhancing foods? More...B erries are the summer staple that signal those "lazy, hazy, crazy days of summer." Fortunately for lovers of these colorful gems, berries aren't just about flavor. They are bursting with healthy nutrients, too. More...A s recently as thirty years ago, our beloved zucchini was usually called Italian green squash, and was little known in the United States. Today, it is not only widely recognized, but a particular favorite of home gardeners, due in large part to being easy to grow and to its culinary versatility. If you don't have zucchini growing in your garden, visit your local farmers' market for the freshest and the best. You will often find organic offerings, plus unique varieties, from the spring through summer and fall. More..." I have a people personality, a good product, and a giving heart," says Geraldine Bell, cradling a coconut chess pie while lighting up the space around her. Geraldine brings a legacy of culinary caring, as women in her family have been serious cooks for generations. It was her grandmother who presented her with the ticket to charm farmers' market customers in the Middle Tennessee area. More...I t's a quandary shared by many small farmers today. "We had to find a way to sell the farm, without selling the farm," says Chris Rinehart, co-owner of RiverView Mounds Century Farm, located near Clarksville, Tennessee. Not wanting to sell the land, and not interested in continuing to farm traditional row crops such as corn and soybeans like his father, Chris and his wife, Scarlett Mulligan, set out to find a new way to make a living on their family's farm. More...A s warm weather approaches, many Tennesseans eagerly await the time when the farmers' markets will be brimming with what is perhaps America's favorite berry, the strawberry. Sadly, the growing season for strawberries in Middle Tennessee is short, lasting only from May to June. The strawberry's short availability period coincides with the season for fresh, local greens, from April through June. Combining these two nutrition stars may seem a little strange at first, but it is well worth the venture. More...T he CSA movement in the United States started in the seventies when a group of families took care of a New England farm's financial budget, each giving what they could afford. In exchange, they went to the farm each week and took all the produce they wanted. I first heard about CSAs in 1987, and started one the following year. I love the concept of giving what you can and taking what you need. More...J ust before Nashville got hit with its worst winter weather in years, we were lucky enough to spend the better part of a Wednesday afternoon at one of the city's favorite restaurants. The Tin Angel is the kind of place that many Nashvillians have a story about: it was your favorite hang when you were going to Vanderbilt; it was the place where you ordered the same irresistible dish for three years in a row because you were absolutely addicted to a certain combination of ingredients; it's the place you had brunch with that girl you went crazy for. In a world full of no-place-specials, Tin Angel is the neighborhood bistro that Nashvillians make their own. More...S pringtime at the local farmers' markets-the colorful variety of fruits and vegetables creates a feast for the eyes and a love affair with your heart. Over the past 30 years or so, researchers have developed a solid base of science to back up what generations of mothers preached-eat your fruits and vegetables. Early on, fruits and vegetables were acclaimed as cancer-fighting foods. There is compelling evidence that a diet rich in fruits and vegetables not only lowers the risk of heart disease and stroke, but also plays an important role in maintaining a healthy weight. More...N ot so many years ago, having enjoyed the hunt and prep of locally grown produce from farmers' markets and CSAs, I expanded my research into the realm of protein. Little did I know that my quest for a new food system was mirroring the work of many area chefs. I knew that the methodology for distributing homegrown beef, pork, poultry, and eggs was not in place, but I persevered, buying a few pounds of pork chops here, a dozen eggs there, often driving some distance to make contact with the farmer. Ultimately, I would seal the deal for tasty meats, with added bonuses of observing sustainable farming practices and making friends with the farmer. More...H ave you heard the phrase, "hold the salt," but never really understood why salt is so bad for you? I wondered the same thing when I was growing up. My name is Kristen and I'm a twenty something health professional who is newly married and starting a career as a dietitian. Keeping my heart healthy means being physically active everyday and making smart food choices. I try to consume low sodium foods and cut the salt when preparing foods by adding more fresh herbs and spices. More...O ne of Nashville's best restaurants is also one of its most progressive. Boasting what are probably the freshest organic ingredients possible, Miel brings new meaning to good taste. More...S ince its inception in 1971, The Farm in Summertown, Tennessee has had a reputation for being an innovative community. Known internationally as a training center for lay midwives and as a leading contributor to the art of vegan cuisine and the creative use of soybeans, The Farm is a destination for many who want to learn more about this experiment in intentional community living. More...T he soon-to-arrive holiday season brings out the best in all of us. What better place to enjoy the fall and Christmas season than at J & J Century Farm, where tradition, fun, and family come together. From the lowlands along Big Barton?s Creek to the forest-covered rolling hills, J & J Century Farm offers a real window to the past. The current proprietor, the founders' great-grandson, Johnny Wayne Wall, recently received the 2009 Tennessee Small Farmer of the Year Award for Alternative Enterprises at Tennessee State University?s Small Farm Expo. In presenting the award, Michael J. Turner, Montgomery and Cheatham County executive director of the USDA Farm Service Agency, said that J & J's operation "demonstrates how vital farming is to everyone living in Tennessee and offers the public opportunity to learn about the heritage and historical importance of farming." More...I n Moore County, Tennessee, water flows from a fissure in a rock. You'd never stumble across it, because the rock is deep underground. From the fissure, the water runs about a mile through an underground channel and joins two other arteries. Now it's really moving. By the time the water from these three tunnels reaches the surface in a cave spring at the end of a shady hollow, it is flowing at a rate of about 800 gallons per minute, with a constant temperature of 56 degrees. And because it has been filtered by limestone and minerals, the water has almost no iron. More...M any a mundane muncher has been born again, bearing witness to the miracle that is a slice of fresh zucchini bread or the revelation of a perfect chunk of fudge. In Nashville, a number of artisan bakers are spreading the gospel, and preaching a faith based on handcrafted quality, and local ingredients. More...O ver the years, eggs and cholesterol have become intertwined. For this reason, many people think that eggs and health can't mix. Actually, eggs are so much more than just a shell full of cholesterol and should be incorporated into a healthy diet. More...A n antioxidant is a nutrient that occurs naturally in many fruits and vegetables. To function properly, our bodies need a daily supply of antioxidants. These disease fighting nutrients are like having an insurance policy for your body; providing protection for tissues and when needed, repairing damage that has been done. Some examples include: vitamin C, vitamin E, beta-carotene and lycopene. More...G reen is a peaceful color by itself. It awakens memories of peace. So does blue - and in the country there are countless times to contemplate the blue sky. Yes, there are storms and tempests, but they end. It's not like the ceaseless traffic flow in Manhattan. The impatient sounds of car horns honking hardly compares with the honking of geese as they fly south and north on their bi-annual journeys. Nothing impatient about geese. They don't rush about. More...B eer is the third most consumed beverage in the world, ceding the top spots only to tea and, well... water. More...D o you know of a vitamin that helps your body create new cells? This is a job so important, especially during pregnancy when our bodies are making lots of new cells, that low levels of this vitamin can cause birth defects. Since 1996, the Food & Drug Administration (FDA) has required all enriched grain products in the USA to be fortified with this vitamin. This has helped to reduce the incidence of neural tube defects (NTDs), a type of severe birth defects. More...N ashville's current food trend can be described in three words: local, unique, artisan! From small, organic, specialty farms, to food-crafters producing small-batch, handmade products, mom-and-pop notions about freshness and quality are creating big waves in a market dominated by chain restaurants and industrial kitchen. More...A pples are, by most standards, the star of the fruit family. Featured in the mythologies and folklore of numerous cultures, apples have been credited as a means to immortality, an emblem of fruitfulness, a love charm, and a cure for every ill. More...E ating foods that are full of fiber plays an important role in your health. So what is fiber? Fiber is a part of plant foods, such as fruits, vegetables, and grain products. Your body cannot digest fiber - it can only be broken down by the friendly bacteria living in your gut. Eating foods high in fiber will greatly benefit your health, and your body will thank you for it! More...W ith Dad being out of commission, my brother, Hank, and I have come to realize that he is not only the founder of the operation, but the work he does on the farm is actually the "work of four men," as Hank puts it. There have been many problems or questions that have come up that have made us say aloud, "u;Well, if Dad were here..." And to make matters worse, we have also lost Mom on the farm too, since she spends her days in the hospital with Dad. Luckily, our brother, Eric had come home for a little while to help out. We also have an amazing farm crew that has worked overtime to get us back on track. More...I t often seems that farmers must concoct a magic formula for creating and sustaining a successful family farm today. Some farms succeed by specializing in unique produce; having a dynamite farmers market stand; or raising the best grass-fed beef in town. More...O n the morning of May 1, rain had already started to fall when trucks packed with fresh produce set out from the Avalon Acres farms near Hohenwald, Tennessee. The season of farmers' markets and CSAs (Community Supported Agriculture) had begun, with locavores across the state eagerly anticipating months of fresh sustainably grown food. May Day marked the first pickup day for members of Avalon's CSA, as trucks rumbled off to distribution sites in Middle Tennessee. More...N ot so many years ago, having enjoyed the hunt and prep of locally grown produce from farmers' markets and CSAs, I expanded my research into the realm of protein. Little did I know that my quest for a new food system was mirroring the work of many area chefs. I knew that the methodology for distributing homegrown beef, pork, poultry, and eggs was not in place, but I persevered, buying a few pounds of pork chops here, a dozen eggs there, often driving some distance to make contact with the farmer. Ultimately, I would seal the deal for tasty meats, with added bonuses of observing sustainable farming practices and making friends with the farmer. More...I n the springtime, Bradley Kountry Acres is a Pick-Your-Own strawberry farm. The Portland, Tennessee family farm began life as a Grade A dairy farm, but in 1996, after more than 30 years of milking cows, the couple made the difficult decision to sell their cows and move on to other farm endeavors. The first operation was a crop of pick-your-own strawberries, then a greenhouse was added for bedding plants. Over the past decade, the Bradley's have added two additional greenhouses and increased the strawberry crop to five acres. They now grow a summer crop of blackberries, peaches, tomatoes, squash, cucumbers and peppers. They've even extended their season to include a fall crop of mums, ornamental gourds, and pumpkins. More...H ave you ever found a really good deal and wanted to keep it a secret? That's how many of Randy Pendergrass's regular Defensive Eating Seminar participants feel about the free monthly discussions that Randy leads at St. Thomas Hospital in Nashville. The "regulars" want to keep it a secret because they can ask Randy questions about nutrition in a relaxed environment. Randy, a licensed sports nutritionist who has worked at St. Thomas Hospital for fifteen years, also provides participants with a free collection of resources. More...N ew Years' Eve is not the only time for an "out with the old and in with the new" concept. Summer is here! Warm weather means more family picnics, cookouts, and ball games. It's time to throw out the old high calorie dishes, introduce new ways to spice up the old favorites with fewer calories, and get in shape with fresh fruits and vegetables. More...S trawberry grower Nancy Edwards lets out a tired sigh as she points to what looks to be an alarm clock nested on her bedside table at her historic Wartrace farmhouse. Upon closer inspection, the box is not flashing the time, but the outside temperature. " I don't get a good nights sleep from the first of March through April," says Edwards." As soon as the temperature dips to 35 degrees, the alarm sounds and my brother Bobby and I are up and in the fields." The signal prompts the siblings to head to the fields and activate the overhead sprinkler system that prevents leaves, buds and flowers from succumbing to frost. More...A s the nation continues to strain under the economic slow-down, the local food move- ment is proving to be a prescient prescription for the ills of a struggling market: Spend your money in your local economy, and make it stronger. One group that is taking this move- ment to a new level is an affiliation of inde- pendent, locally owned restaurants called Nashville Originals. More...O n a Saturday morning visit to Kenny and Beverly Mattingly's dairy farm, there is nothing approaching a dull moment. Kenny is able to cut the curds in his 300 gallon milk vat, assist customers, confer with his son about a cow in heat that needs to be bred, and describe his cheesemaking operation, all without missing a beat. Such is the pace of the artisan cheesemaker whose product has become a favorite in the Middle Tennessee area. More...H ow do you respond to a bad mood or a stressful situation? If you responded "grab something to eat," then we have something in common! My name is Kristen and I'm a twenty something health professional who is newly married and starting a career as a dietitian. Staying healthy means taking care of myself every day: being active and making smart food choices. I look for ways to respond to stress that won't make me feel guilty the next day! Enjoy these tips for managing food and mood! More...F armers, restaurateurs, artisans, and activists' Middle Tennessee is overflowing with people who are passionate about where we live and how we eat. But did you know there is a fermentation specialist amid our growing community? Sandor Katz, also known as Sandorkraut, moved to Tennessee over a decade ago, and has been sharing his love and knowledge of fermentation ever since. More...I t's true - there's nothing more satisfying during the summer months than a frozen, healthy treat. Yes, we said healthy. Summer indulgences don't have to ruin a beach body! They taste great also. If it doesn't satisfy your sweet tooth, then what's the point of eating it? More...I n 1998 teachers John and Pam Dysinger committed to grow organic strawberries on their Bountiful Blessings Farm in Williamsport, Tennessee. By 2006, after a career in international development work, John's brother Edwin and family joined the already productive winter CSA business that John, Pam and their four children had created. The brothers bring their worldly point of view to farming from growing up in southern California with short stints in Singapore, Tanzania, and Pakistan. More...S weet 16th offers baked goods and desserts to suit every taste, from cheddar cheese scones to the "Is it a brownie or is it a cookie?" (Answer: Brookie.) Located at 16th Street and Ordway Place, the bakery's layout makes for a welcoming intimate corner, with gener- ous windows streaming sun- light in on the glass cases filled with freshly baked treats like Heavenly Scones, Hello Dollies layered bars, macaroons, coffee cakes, muffins, and more. More...L ook for a place with at least five hours of full sun each day, otherwise the herbs will become spindly without adequate light. More..."S ome people grow tomatoes and corn. We grow compost. Our crop is soil," Sizwe Herring, the Executive Director of Earthmatters Tennessee, says with a broad smile. On a 3-acre plot donated by the state, Herring and his team of dedicated volunteers, lovingly dote on organic discards like coffee grounds and leaves that "dont belong in a land fill. Tucked away behind high privets and a chain link fence in Nashvilles Sunnyside Neighborhood this oasis for learning, the George W. Carver Food Park, is where they teach by composting nourishing both the earth and community. More...O n Interstate 40 East, between the Linville and Carthage exits, there’s a billboard among wild overgrowth that poses the question: If you died today where would you spend eternity? Continue to Exit 258, and a rebirth amid the storybook beauty of Defeated, Tennessee might be considered for an answer. Better still, as the road hugs the water, one might ease onto the Kempville Highway, magnetized by the Dillehay Farm. Folks there have made a stand, and not just the vegetable type. More...B oyd Mill Farm is a Pick Your Own berry farm nestled on the banks of the West Harpeth River outside Franklin, Tennessee. Once home to the Boyd Mill, the farm was a gathering place for the community from the 1800s until the mill closed in 1920. Many Williamson County roads still bear the Boyd Mill name. More...G reen is the new black. Unlike a lot of trends, this upward swing in consciousness makes people think about their influence on the world around them. Perhaps if we use this surge in environmentalism not as a fad, but as a sincere movement toward the health of the earth, and a willingness to do for ourselves, we really can make a difference on the large scale by starting on the small. More...B ursting with vitamins and minerals, winter squash and pumpkins are good for more than just Halloween jack-o'-lanterns and Thanksgiving pies. More...I t's all about keeping it small for farmstead goat cheese, says producer Gayle Tanner. More...I 'm Kristina - a twenty-something health professional - who likes to eat healthy on a budget. I love shopping at my local farmers' market and eating fresh fruits and vegetables all year long. Eating fresh in the winter months gets expensive. It makes sense to follow my grandmothers' good examples and can my favorite local fruits and veggies this fall for the cold winter months ahead. More...C atherine and Ben Simmons of Flying S Farm are part of a new breed of farmers, changing careers in mid-life to become market farmers. The two met eleven years ago, when Catherine was still working in the optical field. She jokes that Ben's eyeglasses were the hardest pair she ever sold, and after that she had to retire to care for her ailing mother. Catherine and Ben's partnership grew, and the two have now been market farmers for over eight years. Recently, they expanded their 5 acre home place with an additional 10 acres to produce an even wider variety of the heirloom vegetables they love to grow and introduce to their customers. More...R ocky Glade Farm, in Eagleville, Tennessee, is definitely a family affair. Established in 1998, the year owners Jim and Julie Vaughn were married, the farm has already turned into a multi-generation operation. When they started the farm Julie and Jim both had full time jobs, but it wasn't long until they both felt the call to home and farming, and what began as a few custom beef calves for friends and a summer garden is now a full-time job for both. In addition to Jim and Julie and their young sons Dylem and Caleb, Jim's parents and close neighbors Thomas and Peggy Vaughn help out with farming tips, equipment and babysitting, and Uncle Clyde and Aunt Joe Winters step in and help to staff the farm's booth at the Franklin Farmers’ Market. With more than 50 acres on which to raise vegetables, grass-fed beef, and Katahdin sheep, the farm is busy year-round growing produce, cattle, sheep, and two young boys. More...F orget the clichéd 'spring chickens.' If anything, these new- comers share an eagerness to break out from the 9 to 5 office routine. They are resourceful and inventive while fac- ing the many challenges of life on the farm, while also building a strong local food community. More...W hen you buy food locally, you're not only doing something good for you and your family, but you'll also be helping out your local farmer and helping to protect our rural working landscape. More..." Fresh Harvest is available all year--online," says Tally May, of Fresh Harvest. The local food collaboration is the brainchild of Tallahassee May , of Turnball Creek Farm and John Drury, of Drury Family Farm. Their arrangement is unique in Middle Tennessee. More...
